Growing & Winemaking

 

The Forest or the Trees?

December 2008
 
by Alan Goldfarb
 
Alternative text
 
For decades French barrelmakers advertised the forests where their world-famous oak originated. Recently, however, cooperages have begun focusing more on the grain of the wood than the place it came from when marketing their products.
PHOTO: Taransaud Tonnellerie
 
'We don't work on a forest, we work on the size of the grain--that's a revolution," Nicholas Mähler-Besse of Tonnellerie Radoux told Wines & Vines in early October at his cooperage near Cognac, France. His words echoed those of several cooperage spokesmen across France, including the Burgundy region.
 

 
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