Keep the labor force employed
Perhaps the most compelling argument for growing other crops, however, comes from John Williams of Frog's Leap Winery, who was raised on a dairy farm in New York state and studied dairy science. He makes a good argument for commercial growing to improve his labor force. He can employ and train more people year-round and the workers who prune and pick grapes now work in the orchard and winery when they’re not busy in the vineyards.

He sells some of his vegetables to four restaurants, and also sells olive oil and honey in the winery’s tasting room, but much of the produce goes to employees as a perk. Williams doesn’t expect the revenue from what he sells to cover the cost of farming, in fact.

But he sees many benefits. For one, his diversified staff doesn’t require grounds-tending or landscaping services. The labor goes  directly into the produce.

The biggest benefit, however, may be in allowing him to hire more people year-round. “The Mexican workforce has been wonderful for us, and we try to return that favor.”

The workers don’t have to be paid off after pruning in January until tying canes in May, or from leafing until harvest. In between, Williams’ workers can prune trees, turn compost, bottle Sauvignon Blanc, harvest broccoli, rack and wash barrels, thin pears and apples, bottle Merlot, etc. They work full time—and get paid, three-week vacations, 401(k) plans and health benefits. “We also have fewer safety issues, because they’re well-trained and experienced,” Williams says. “They’re an engaged and highly motivated workforce.”

He admits that scheduling and supervising takes more effort, but the grapes come first, then the winery, then the rest of the crops. “Are there higher overall labor costs?” he asks, “How can you really measure your labor costs? The workers get stable wages, they don’t have to worry about housing and healthcare and where their kids go to school. They’re a community of workers.”

He also says there are fewer problems with documentation, better health, less crime and use of the community’s safety net.

Williams also laughs that because the winery is closed on Sunday, he suspects he’s helping feed some others in Napa County, too.

These three grapegrowers report that the diversity of their farms helps organic farming, too.  Larger animals provide manure for fertilizer, chickens and goats eat weeds, and chickens eat bugs. Truchard Vineyards raises goats and miniature burros to deter coyotes.

The gardens and animals attract visitors, too.

Many -- perhaps most -- other wineries in Napa Valley also raise vegetables for their food programs, staff and owners. St. Supéry Vineyards raises fruit and bees at its sprawling Dollarhide Ranch in Pope Valley, and sells the fruit and honey to local restaurants, for example. Round Pond Vineyards uses its crops in the wine and food programs—and for the staff and owners, who live on the property.

Hall, Hudson and Williams acknowledge that many growers don’t have the time, expertise or motivation to grow their own crops, but suggest a return to old-fashioned sharecropping. Many local people would apparently like to return to the land but can’t afford property in expensive Napa Valley.